Question:
It seems like salicylic
acid is becoming more popular in acne treatments. What is
it? Does it work?
Answer:
Salicylic acid is actually very closely related to aspirin (acetyl
salicylic acid). It was originally derived from the willow tree
(Salix) whose bark contains salicylic acid – and lent its
name to the compound.
The
FDA has evaluated the use of salicylic
acid for treating acne and approved it as one of a few medications
that can be used without prescription. The result is that it has
indeed become popular as an ingredient for acne treatment products.
•
Anti-inflammatory As anyone who has used aspirin for arthritis
knows, one of its primary actions is as an anti-inflammatory agent.
Similarly, salicylic acid has anti-inflammatory properties which
contribute to its more gentle treatment of acne compared to benzoyl
peroxide.
•
Keratolytic One of the four factors leading to acne is the thickening
of the lining of the pore which contributes to a blockage of the
normal flow of oils out of the pore. Salicylic acid helps to decrease
that thickening through its ‘keratolytic’ action.
•
Antibacterial Although not as aggressive an antibacterial as benzoyl
peroxide, salicylic acid helps to kill the bacteria that contribute
to the development of acne.
•
Upper Pore Activity In contrast to benzoyl peroxide which penetrates
deep into the pore (follicle), salicylic acid tends to work primarily
in the upper areas of the pore. As an oil soluble agent, it penetrates
into the oily plug and helps to break it up.
•
Formulating flexibility In contrast to the highly active benzoyl
peroxide molecule, salicylic acid is compatible with a wide range
of ingredients. Because it is able to coexist with fragile botanicals
and antioxidants, these skin-supporting ingredients can be used
to a far greater degree in salicylic acid based products.
Despite
all these strengths in the treatment of acne, salicylic acid is
still not as aggressive a medication as benzoyl peroxide. It tends
to work more gently, more gradually than benzoyl peroxide. And,
because it doesn’t penetrate as deeply as benzoyl peroxide,
it may not control the bacteria behind acne as well.
Because
salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide each have complementary strengths
and weaknesses, there is a trend toward using both agents to achieve
the best control. I agree with dermatologist Dr. Katie Rodan,
who said in an interview with the New Beauty magazine, (Spring-Summer
2007): “The best scenario for treating acne is combination
treatment with both salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide.”
The AcneRecovery System uses salicylic acid as the medication
in its daytime Repair Lotion and is adjustable between 0.5% and
2.0%. Further, the Acne Face Wash is used morning and evening
and has a salicylic acid concentration of 2.0%. The nighttime
Treatment Lotion, by contrast, has as its active medication benzoyl
peroxide.
Whatever
system you use to get rid
of your acne, it’s a good idea not to use a leave-on
product or products that have both salicylic acid and benzoyl
peroxide. The best way to use them for combination treatment is
to do so as alternating applications.
If
you have a question that you haven't been able to find an answer
to on this site, please send your question about acne to Dr.
Wilkinson.
